Champagne Agrapart
Bottling their own Champagnes in the Côte de Blancs since the late 1800s
Unlike most Grower Producers, Champagne Agrapart, or more accurately Agrapart et Fils has been producing and bottling their own Champagne since the late 1800s. Located in the village of Avize in the Côte de Blancs, they produce only between 6000-7500 cases of wine per year so they can maintain a very high and artisanal level of quality.
Agrapart has 9 1/2 hectares of vineyards, the mostly Grand Cru, in the
Côte de Blancs, mostly the villages of
Avize, Cramant, Oger, and Oiry. There are 62 parcels, with an average age of 35 years, and the oldest vines are
over 60 years old. Most of the vineyards were acquired in the 1950s
and 60s by Pierre Agrapart, grandson of the founder Arthur Agrapart, and now
run by the 4th generation, brothers Pascal and Fabrice.
Although they seem to have zero interest in being labeled organic, biodynamic, or anything else, the wines speak for themselves. No chemical pesticides or weedkillers, manually worked vineyards, homeopathic formulas for parasite control and proper pruning, both technique and timing, to control other vineyard issues. Some of the vineyards are plowed by horse as that compresses the soil less than tractors do. Pascal has stated his belief that it is important to work on the vines and in the cellar according to "natural rhythms and sensibilities."
The grapes are pressed with a traditional press, they are rarely chapitalized, fermentation is with natural yeasts, and malolactic fermentation is completed for all the wines. Bottling is usually in May (at the full moon or close) with no fining, no filtration, and no cold stabilization. Some of the best wines are aged in very old, 600-liter barrels (demi-muids) which impart as little new wood flavor as possible.
August Agrapart lived until the age of 96 until he passed away in 1996. He reports his secret to long life was “1 bottle of Champagne a day.”
Their wines include the NV Les 7 Crus Blanc de blancs
made from 7 villages in the Côte des Blancs,
the Terroirs Grand Cru, 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from 20
to 40 year old vines midslope in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry, Les
Demoiselles Rosé, made using Terroirs Grand Cru as the base with
Pinot Noir purchased from René Geoffroy from the village of Cumières, and
three different vintage wines, all with a different character:
Minéral, made from 40 year old vines in Cramant, Cuvée
l'Avizoise, from vines up to 40 years old North of Avize, and Cuvée
Vénus, from 55 year old vines in Avize worked by their mare named Vénus.
These three vintage wines all express their repective terroirs and it will
be interesting to try them side by side some day.
Tasting Note: Champagne Agrapart
Les Demoiselles Rose NV
A light salmon pinkish color with lots of medium sized bubbles. 93% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Noir.
Very delicate and delicious on the nose, with bread, strawberries, pink flowers, some underlying cherry.
Extremely elegant and creamy, instantly captivating. Delicate underlying minerality and gentle red fruits. Apple. This may be an elegant wine, but it is no wimp either!
Their US Importer, Polaner Selections, states that the Rose (and Les 7 Crus) can easily age and improve for 10-15 years. I don't doubt it.!